JC Travels
May 2017
Saltburn & Edinburgh
Edinburgh — Royal Mile and Castle
Week 177  ·  Saltburn  ·  Conservative Club  ·  Edinburgh Free Tour  ·  Scotland vs England

Saltburn &
Edinburgh

Quick trip to the north of England and Scotland for the weekend to meet a friend who just moved to the seaside village of Saltburn. Lovely when I was there on a warm evening and sun out until 11pm — but for much of the rest of the year it is probably pretty dreary.

Saltburn — The Conservative Club

Traditional town where the pubs all close at 11pm (and I didn't arrive until 10pm) so my friend had a membership at the Conservative Club which stays open later — yes the same guys (and gals) who called an election and had lost the night before. But they had a band and were very friendly — as long as Brexit happened they were happy.

View of seaside cliffs from friend's living room in Saltburn — rent 90% less than London Entire town built in the Victorian era by the railroad company to increase rail travel — Saltburn
View of seaside cliffs from friend's living room — rent 90% less than London  ·  Entire town built in the Victorian era by the railroad company to increase rail travel
Background — Edinburgh & the Royal Mile

Edinburgh has been Scotland's capital since the 15th century. The Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle (built on volcanic rock occupied since the 2nd century AD) to Holyrood Palace, the official Scottish residence of the British monarch. The city's Old Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is famous for its "closes," narrow alleyways that branch off the Royal Mile, some of which gave rise to the origin story of the expression "shitfaced" (as the guide described, before external sewage pipes, waste was thrown from windows at night after a warning cry). The Greyfriars area near the university is where J.K. Rowling wrote much of Harry Potter — many names in the surrounding graveyard appear in the books, and the nearby Elephant House café is where she wrote. Victoria Street, which winds below the Royal Mile, is often cited as inspiration for Diagon Alley.

Edinburgh — Free Tour & Grim History

Joined a free tour and the young lady was very focused on a) how awful the English were to the Scots and b) how awful the ruling Scots were to the peasant Scots. Ended the tour on a high note of a single stone memorialising the deaths of 267 people who were imprisoned for an uprising, survived in a camp outside for a month with no food or water (the other 90% died), were put on a ship to be sent to the new colonies to be slaves, the ship sank leaving Edinburgh in a storm and the survivors swam to shore — where they were then executed. Now who wants ice cream?

On the Scotland vs England Football Bet

Scotland was playing England in a World Cup qualifier. Being an England supporter and at the pub, I needed to lay low — the Scots are very serious about hating England in football and I wasn't wearing a kilt. So I bet on Scotland to win at long odds so I would display the right emotions.

It worked and I was elated and hugging some tatted-up bald guys in kilts as Scotland scored 2 goals in the last 5 minutes of regulation to take the lead. But ended up distraught as Scotland was heartbroken in the 93rd minute — losing my £110 in potential winnings.

Holyrood Palace — Edinburgh Scotland Edinburgh Castle and stadium under construction for annual festival
Near the public hanging square — Edinburgh Adam Smith statue — rolling over in his grave, Edinburgh
Terraced buildings — only two floors on other side on top of the hill, Edinburgh Arthur's Seat — Edinburgh Scotland
Holyrood Palace  ·  Edinburgh Castle  ·  Near the public hanging square  ·  Adam Smith — rolling over in his grave  ·  Terraced buildings (only two floors on the other side)  ·  Arthur's Seat
Closes, Hogwarts & The Origin of Shitfaced
Tight spaces between buildings — sewage pipes run outside. Prior to these pipes, sewage was tossed out the window after dark. Edinburgh. Edinburgh Castle — line too long to wait to get in
Inspiration for Hogwarts — Edinburgh View of top of Royal Mile — Edinburgh Scotland
Dog on a tombstone — apparently this is not frowned upon, Edinburgh Maxwell Tartan — I inquired if I was Scottish enough to wear a kilt
Tight closes — sewage pipes now run outside (what happened before is the origin of "shitfaced," according to the guide)  ·  Edinburgh Castle — line too long  ·  Inspiration for Hogwarts  ·  View of the Royal Mile  ·  Dog on a tombstone — apparently not frowned upon  ·  Maxwell Tartan — I inquired if I was Scottish enough

"The guide ended the tour on a high note of a single stone memorialising 267 deaths. The survivors swam to shore — and were then executed. Now who wants ice cream?"

EdinburghScotlandSaltburnEnglandRoyal Mile
Week 177  ·  May 2017